I am going to pick up where we left off last week which will be installing the locks and hinges. The edge of the door lock is slightly angled. It is very subtle and it would not be hard to miss this and cut your door mortise wrong. This helps to allow for smaller clearance around the door. What this means is you will need to cut a slight bevel on one side of the door. I like to do this with a hand plane but it could be done on a tablesaw. Just remember if you trim too much off you can’t put it back on so be careful.
The lid lock will go in the same basic way. This lock is also angled.
To cut the holes for the keys use the escutcheon to outline the profile needed. Using a drill bit, chisels and carving tools clean out the waste.
Now onto dovetailing all the drawers. Since I have already gone over cutting dovetails I will not do that again but one major difference is the layout of the dovetails. The front gets half blind dovetails and the back gets through dovetails. One thing to make note of in the photos is that the drawer back stops 3/4” from the bottom of the drawer. This allows you to slide the drawer bottom in and allows for expansion and contraction.
Here is a shot of the drawer side for the bottom drawer. The dado is ¼ x ¼. Something else to remember is to clean up the insides of the drawers before you glue up.
Here is a shot of one of the gallery drawers. It is very difficult to see in the photos but the side actually extends about 1/16” below the drawer front. This gives you equal spacing all the way around the drawer front and keeps the front from catching on the lip when going in and out.
For the bottom drawer use a ½” thick panel and bevel the edges so it will slide into the ¼” dados. I like to use a panel raiser to do this but it can be done at the table saw too. Cut two ½” slots the width of your TS blade to drive the nails in. These slots allow the bottom to expand and contract and believe me they will move. When these are assembled glue the front of the drawer into the rabbet in the drawer front and nail the back. Two tips for the nail are to pre-drill and don’t sink the nail. You want the drawer bottom to be able to move.
For the gallery drawers I do not bother with the slot. The nail and drawer bottom are small enough that it will allow for enough movement.
Here is a detail you can add or not. For this I wanted to dress up the gallery a little so I added a 1/8” bead around the door and bottom drawers.
Here is the miter saw setup for cutting the bead if you chose to do it that way. A hand saw and shooting board work just as well.
The last thing you will need for the gallery is the box that goes behind the door and the secret drawers.
For the box build it to the exact size if not a little bigger than the opening. Once it is built use a hand plane to taper the sides front to back making the back smaller. You want this to slide in smoothly but for there to be no visible gap around the front when it is all the way in.
Next time we will put everything together and start applying the finish